Tie-in skill on interlining and shell fabric can be summed up in one sentence: as long as property of interlining(shrinkage, thickness, etc.) consistent with property of shell fabrics, the problems is avoidable. When choosing interlining, we usually take 3 aspects into consideration as below:
1. Thickness: thin interlining used for thin shell fabric, and thick interlining used for thick shell fabric
2. Weaving technology of shell fabric: plain weaving, twill weaving, disordered weaving or interweaving for special materials like woolen fabrics
3. Material of shell fabric: material of shell fabric will influence 3 factors:
1) Shrinkage—if shrinkage of interlining can’t keep up with the shrinkage of shell fabric, it’ll blistering.
2) Elasticity—it is unsuitable if shell fabric is stretchable, and interlining is inelastic
3) Adhensiveness—some shell fabric without special finishing
is difficult to be bonded, just like silk.
At present, there’re some regular collocations between shell fabric and interlining. Clothing of famous or A-class garment brand is worthy of thousands of dollars because of superior quality. They’re very strict on interlining selection, they use horsehair interlining and tricot interlining on business suit, woven interlining on formal T-shirt, etc. On the contrary, some informal clothing manufacturer will replace interlining by something else. For example, hair interlining comes into being as alternatives because horsehair interlining is very expensive.
Surely, there’re many other factors will influence interlining matching to large extend, such as price, customer’s requirement and wearing environment, etc.
When laminating, we may encounter many problems like blistering, curling, strike through, strike back, differential hand, change of color, moire effect, excessive shrinkage, shining effect, adhering layers, resin traces on fabric surface, etc. Therefore, we have to take below 4 factors into consideration:
Fusing condition
Material of shell fabric
Property of glue
Finishing of shell fabric
A perfect working fusing press and appropriate conditions are needed to achieve good results. Only an exact balanced combination of temperature, pressure and time can guarantee an excellent adhesion.
If the fusing temperature, pressure and timing are not correctly set, the intensity of the fusing will differ. Before fusing, the type of material and interlining being used and the desired intensity of the bond must be considered.
So, for interlining application, the best interlining isn’t the most expensive, but right is best!
![[2018-01-06 09:19:31]](/Upload/1515201582.jpg "[2018-01-06 09:19:31]")
